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On the Road to Damascus

(Sorry, just realised I had saved this post as a draft originally, rather than published ıt. Too many different languages I’m trying to deal with these days)

This afternoon I’m catching a bus from Amman to Damascus. All going well, it shouldn’t take much more than 6-7 hours, including going through the border procedures. It looks like things should be all good for getting a visa at the border. Several people I have spoken too have said it is no problem for New Zealanders. The only problem was at the bus company, where they weren’t too keen to sell me a ticket with no visa in my passport. I guess they don’t want to risk having me holding up a bus full of people while I get into an argument with a border official.

I’ve enjoyed my time in Jordan. The people here are much nicer, not constantly trying to rip you off, and things seem to work a bit better. I also seem to be able to handle their version of Arabic a little better, although I have a long way to go! Amman hasn’t really done much for me – basically just a big noisy city full of traffic, but the rest of the country is nice.

Petra was cool to go too, but I suprised myself a little in that one long day (plus Petra by Night) was enough for me, and I didn’t want to go back for a second day, even though I had a ticket for it. The walk down Al-Siq, followed by the first view of the Treasury is pretty awesome, but I was a little let down by some of the rest of it. It has eroded a lot over the centuries, and the old city centre requires quite a bit of imagination to work out quite what it all looked like before time/earthquakes/etc. Certainly worth the visit though.

We had a nice day travelling by taxi from Wadi Musa (Petra) to Amman. It’s very weird driving around a bunch of biblical sites though, and seeing Israel so close by. The Dead Sea was a bit of fun, although I don’t think I could handle a week at a resort there. The water is very strange – it feels like a fine baby oil against your skin. Quite perculiar. The thing I couldn’t work out was why they had a safety rope a little way out from shore, with signs telling me not to go beyond it – it’s not like it was possible for me to drown. Perhaps they were worried about me floating off to Israel.

Not sure exactly how long I’ll be in Syria for – probably around a week to 10 days. I think it might be time for me to get up to a Turkish beach resort, and hang out for a couple of days, relaxing, rather than visiting historical monuments every day. Mentally you get a bit sick of it after a while. I’ll just struggle on though, thinking of others at work.

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Egypt: A land of unanswered cellphones and ignored metal detectors

Two things I have noticed in Egypt – one is that almost every metal detector you walk through – at temples, train stations, hotel lobbies – is completely ignored when it beeps. They often have someone sitting at them, and you must walk through them, not around, but when they beep, no-one does anything. There is not often any way to pass your bags around them, usually there are no scanners. The first couple of times you go through, you stop and look around after the beep, expecting someone to do something – and you get knocked over by the person behind you charging through. After a while you just carry on through all the metal detectors, with all your bags, not even blinking when it beeps. You then act all shocked on the odd occasion they actually do something about it.

The second thing is that no-one answers their mobile when it rings – instead, they let it ring for about 30s, until the ring is starting to get really annoying, then casually reach down and pull out their phone. This seems to apply particularly on trains, buses and ferries. It’s not that they haven’t noticed it ringing, it’s more that people seem to want to let everyone know that they have a mobile, and that they are receiving a call. It gets very annoying after a while.

I’ve been thinking though that these may be related. As anyone who has been here knows, it is a very noisy place, with little concept of personal space. The beeping of car horns is endless – for people who haven’t experienced it, just think about every time you use anything like the indicator, or lights, or brakes, or wave, or pass someone – here you just use the horn instead. Lights may occasionally be used at night – not on all the time, of course, you just might flash them once if you see another car coming.

So the conclusion I’m reaching is that people get so used to the constant noise around them, that things like phones don’t make an impact until it’s been the same noise for a good 30s or so. Similarly with metal detectors, only beeping for a few seconds – no-one even registered it.

It is however a little quieter where I am tonight, in Dahab. Yes, that Dahab. Yes I am very close to where the bombs went off – i.e. just a little down the road. It’s been quite a change to come here, with far, far less hassle than the rest of Egypt. It’s like a different country almost. Very different in terms of what the tourists wear here too – a lot of bikinis.

I was laid up for a couple of days in Hurghada, due to a ferry cancellation. A pretty dull place, full of Russians, and I would have rather not stopped there. However, I’ve been sick since Tuesday, and a couple of days doing nothing was exactly what I needed. I’m still only just getting over it now – hopefully the Nifuroxazide will have fully kicked in tomorrow, and I’ll be fully right. Not being able to eat properly for days starts to take it out of you. If I’m not, I’ll have to hunt down a doctor somewhere.

The plan is to get a bus to Nuweiba tomorrow, followed by a ferry to Aqaba in Jordan. All going well, I will be in either Aqaba or maybe Wadi Musa tomorrow night. If I’m still sick, I’ll stop in Aqaba instead – better chance of doctors there.

Hope everyone out there is feeling a little better than I am.

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Alexandria is a Love Wave on the Egyptian Land

At least that’s what the sign said. I have no idea what it means, perhaps something was lost in the translation. I would upload the photo of it, but I can’t be bothered transferring my photos onto this computer.

I’m currently in Alexandria, killing time before my train leaves for Cairo. After getting to Cairo, I transfer to a sleeper train, to take me to Aswan by tomorrow morning.

I arrived in Cairo on Sunday, and spent a couple of days there before coming up to Alexandria for a couple of nights, mainly to see El Alamein. I went out there yesterday, to visit the war graves. Just rows and rows of the silver fern on gravestones. Very few other people around – there was no-one else at the German memorial, and a couple of other people were leaving the Commonwealth one as I arrived.

Egypt has been interesting, but I am starting to get very annoyed with people endlessly trying to rip you off, and not answering simple questions without trying to sell you something first. The baksheesh is pretty bad too – tipping someone for providing a useful service is one thing, but having to bribe uniformed police just to visit war graves is basically corruption. I was speaking to an Egyptian the other day who told me that corruption in Egypt is not some remote thing, it is something that walks beside you all the time.

That’s a large part of what the recent bombings were about – it’s not religion, it’s money and corruption. I hadn’t really planned on spending much time in the Sinai area, and I can’t see those plans changing. I’ll probably have to be there one or two nights though, while I am in transit on my way to Jordan.

Libya was an interesting place, but I think I’d had enough by the time we left. I could stay longer in the desert, but the small towns were just truly depressing. The towns had so much rubbish everywhere, and so many half-finished buildings, with people just sitting around, nothing to do. I guess some places didn’t get reached by the Revolution. Or perhaps the Great Leader never sees those places.

The desert was more than worth the ticket price, and I’m glad I didn’t just go on a tour of the coastline. It’s quite crazy when you’re driving through sand seas, where all you can see is sand dunes, in every direction, and no tracks, no sign of human habitation. The desert is not just all sand though – I was surprised at the large rocky areas, and the clumps of trees scattered through the desert. A tough environment though, one that you need to be tough to survive in. A peaceful place though – intense stillness and quiet in the early morning, while it’s still cool, before the sun rises and pushes the temperature up to 40.

The Gadhafi culture is quite disturbing. Everywhere you go there are billboards with pictures of the Great Leader, looking like the elder statesman of Africa, with some pithy slogan “Partners not Wage Workers.” I bought the Green Book, but after reading it I am not really any closer to understanding what it all means for Libya. Things have been loosening up for the last few years, maybe Gadhafi will move on, and they can get a proper government. There is no reason for the poverty there, with the huge amount of oil they are sitting on.

I met an interesting man last night, who was a connoisseur of fake watches. His supplier came in with many watches, which he pored over for an hour or two, before selecting one to add to his collection. Apparently the Italian-sourced fake Rolexes are better than the China-sourced ones. The best seem to be the ones in the Philippines – they are even waterproof. We were having a few drinks at the Spitfire bar, an Alexandria institution, and I’m feeling a bit fragile this morning. Not sure if it’s just a hangover, or a reaction to something I’ve eaten or drunk. Probably a bit of both.

Not sure when I’ll get around to uploading photos. Maybe if I’ve got some downtime in Nuweiba or Sharm El Sheikh. I’ll try and write another post before I leave Egypt too.

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Keep your eyes on the road

Just a quick update from the road – I have now been travelling around NZ for over two weeks, and I’m having a great time.

Unfortunately I brought a bit of cold weather with me at the start, and our plans to make the Tongariro Crossing were foiled, but the weather has been fine and warm since then. I’ve spent time in Whangarei – I don’t know who’s done the work on the Glenbervie MTB trails, but thanks – then I’ve been moving south. Quick trip around the East Cape before my brother’s wedding in Tauranga, and now I’ve moved to the South Island.

I’m riding the Queen Charlotte track tomorrow. Should be a couple of hard days riding, then further south for a bit, before shooting up the country, and back to the northern hemisphere.

Hope everyone’s OK out there. When I get some more down time, I’ll make more of an effort to post some photos and more details on my travels. I’m just moving around too much at the moment to get it sorted. Watch this space.

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Say you’re leavin’ on the 7:30 train and that you’re headin’ out to Hollywood

Well, actually it’s the 11:00 train to Kings Cross, but anyway…the time has come for me to ship out of Edinburgh. My gear is mostly packed up, and I’m heading out tomorrow, to spend the next few months on the road.

Edinburgh is a fabulous city, both to live in and to visit. Even when you’ve been here a while, you still find that it will suprise you when you go into a new area, and find more amazing views, or beautiful architecture. Last week I went on a bike tour of the city, and even though I knew the general area, I still found myself suprised by different views on the city. If you are in the city, the bike tour is well worth doing – it’s much more interactive than a bus tour, and you find yourself getting much more involved. For the less fit out there, don’t worry, it’s not too difficult, as there are lots of stops, and you don’t have to go straight up any of the steeper parts.

The other thing I did was go along part of the Waters of Leith Walkway, from Stockbridge up to Roseburn. This is a really nice walk, well worth the effort. It’s not especially widely-known or utilised, but it is well worth the effort. It gives you a much different view of the city to walking along the roads.

Last night I went out to the England/Scotland game with Craig – fantastic evening, great atmosphere at the game, 67,000 people all screaming for Scotland. The crowd went crazy at the end, with Scotland pulling off a great upset win. Town was packed later on, with plenty of happy fans, and a few Englishmen drowning their sorrows. I was fully looking the part, with a kilt and Scotland jersey on. Apart from risking hypothermia, it was good too. Women seem to go a bit crazy over a man in a kilt though…

I’m not sure how regularly I’ll be able to post updates over the next few months, but I’ll try and put some on content every now and then, even if it’s just a short note on whatever country I’m currently in.

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Where I’m at, where I’m going, and LOTS OF PHOTOS!

Thought it was about time for a bit of an update on what’s happening in my life, and where I’m planning on traveling.

I’ve only got three weeks to go at work here, and it can’t come soon enough – I’ve got very itchy feet, and I’m looking forward to being on the road again. End of February I’m on the road, heading to NZ for a month. I’ve got a few things planned – Tongariro Crossing, Queen Charlotte track (by bike), the Otago Rail Trail, plus a fair bit of driving around. And perhaps more importantly, catching up with friends and family.

After that, I’m going to San Francisco for a few days, before carrying on to London. I’ve wanted to go to San Fran for a while, and this is a good chance. Plus I get to fly Air NZ, presumably on the fancy revamped planes. Plan is to catch up with Bruce and Blair in London, before flying to Libya for a couple of weeks. Due to visa hassles, I then fly back to London, stay overnight, then on to Cairo. From there, I’ll work my way around Egypt, Jordan, Syria and Turkey. Depending on timing, I’ll then either go overland back to the UK, or fly. The only set date I have is to get back to see The Eagles at Twickenham on June 17th. Should be a good trip through the Middle East, hopefully the political situation isn’t too bad along the way. I’m sure things are often different on the ground anyway. After that, I’ll probably need to find another contract, to get some more cash.

I’ve told some people about this, but not everyone’s aware of it yet – I’ve got my own complete website up and running now. It works out a bit better for me in terms of uploading photos, and formatting things just the way I want to. Problem is that I don’t really know how to do the formatting I want, or for that matter, what formatting I actually do want. So it’s still a work in progress, but I’ve got quite a few photos uploaded now – everything from 2005 onwards. I still want to upload some photos from my 2004 travels, but for that can wait for now. I’ll keep fiddling around with the formatting until I get something I like a bit more, but it’s passable for now. Suggestions are welcome. I would like to integrate my blog stuff more with it, but that could be a bit of a hassle, so for now I’ll keep my blog here. So check out Northland Boy. Dig around in the photo sections, see what you think.