Well, actually it doesn’t say that, but it still is very much propaganda central – after 4.5 days on the bike I checked into a hotel with a TV, and have just been watching a lot of IRINN – Islamic Republic Iran News Network. It is both disturbing and informing to watch. It’s the only thing with any English language, just a scrolling bar of newsbites. Here’s some genuine examples of headlines I’ve seen – none of them made up:
- “The Enemy has acknowledged Iranian soft influence in the region”
- “Poll: Iraq war has shattered American morale”
- “Bush stammer becomes laughing stock”
- “Pres. Mahmoud Ahmadinejad lauds role of public relations departments in establishing trust with people”
- “Iranian investments in Palestine, Lebanon and Iraq have been absolutely important” – by “investments” they mean funding and arms for insurgents, not factories
- “Zionist regime’s helicopters martyred two children in Gaza strip today”
- “Iran is a democracy which rely’s (sic) on religion”
But there were some encouraging points, mainly that they are prepared to talk with the US, and agree on a need for stability in Iraq, which they believe they can create. They hardly ever referred to the Israeli government directly, preferring to use the terms “Olmert regime” or “Zionists.” They also ran very disturbing cartoons, in Farsi, but clearly portraying Jewish characters doing bad things. Simple stereotypes, that sort of thing. I must talk some more to Iranian people about this channel, see whether anyone takes it seriously. I’m pretty sure they don’t.
Because there is much more to Iran than the propaganda that the government puts out. In general, the people are friendly and helpful, as long as they are not behind the wheel of a car. For example today at the bakery, I’d been waiting for a while to get some bread, but got bored of waiting, so wandered off. At the same time a man who had gotten some bread also left, and he chatted to me in English for a while, and made me take some bread from him (I did try refusing multiple times).
I rode down from Esfahan to Shiraz over 5 days, camping at Pasgardae and Persepolis along the way. Near Persepolis there was a sign for “The Persepolis Tourist Complex” that had the standard symbol for camping and caravans. But when I got there, no they didn’t do camping. No problem, the guys on horseback at the carpark told me I could camp under the trees, on the patch of grass next to the carpark. Very nice too, and when I woke up the next day, the first guy I saw was carrying a machine gun. He just waved over at me. No concerns about theft there.
I enjoyed my days riding down this way, and it has been interesting to see the country change. A reasonable elevation for most of the way, around or above 2,000m, and so things have been pleasantly cooler. Was interesting to see the country change as I came over the main pass, on this side there must be a lot more water, as the fields are green, and there are many more trees. I even had a couple of hours rain one night, meaning no hot dinner – but it was OK, I just ate one of the melons I’ve been eating each day – around $0.50 for a rockmelon or honeydew melon. The watermelons are a bit big and heavy to carry, so I haven’t tried them yet.
Sometimes it gets a bit weary constantly being the centre of attention. I don’t know how many car horns get honked at me, but I would estimate (conservatively) somewhere in the order of 100 per hour. In small towns, when I stop for provisions, I tend to get a lot of stares, and people following my every movement. In the cities, and at the tourist sites, you get people come up to you and want to chat. Usually this is nice, but occasionally you are hot and tired, and just want to be left alone for a bit. But putting in some effort is often rewarded.
Camping has been good too, people just generally leave me be, even if I’m not all that well concealed. The other day I had a nice spot by a river, on soft grass (sheer luxury!) but more or less in the middle of a small town, with houses nearby. But my only disturbances were beautiful shepherdesses herding their flocks past me as I cooked dinner. People saw me, and just left me be. It was only as I was just about to ride off, when a couple of kids came over to talk. They turned out to be the “give me money” type of kids, so they didn’t get a lot of conversation.
Annoyingly, I was kicked out of the Shagh-e Cheragh Mausoleum today, for being a non-Muslim. I’m pretty sure non-Muslims are allowed in there though – they certainly have been in the past. Was only wandering around in the courtyard too, hadn’t actually gotten around to going into the mausoleum itself. A bit annoying, since I’ve been to other Islamic mausoleums in countries like Syria without problem. It’s not like I was being in any way disrespectful, and I was, as always in these parts of the world, conservatively dressed. Actually, looking back on it, I’m not sure the guy was all that official, just being a prick.
Have also found out that my photo album is not fit for public consumption in Iran. The other day I stopped for water at what I think may have been a bank, and was soon the centre of attention, with someone filling up my water bottle, others bringing me tea and biscuits, etc. We were going through the usual stuff, I had the map out, then thought to show a few photos, which started out OK. Then we got to scandalous pictures of women without their heads covered, and the album was quickly closed up and returned to me. Interestingly though, by this stage someone had gotten hold of my “Point-It” picture book, with pictures of all kinds of different items. They all very quickly found the page with photos of various bottles of spirits, and they all made it clear they knew very well what whiskey was, and would like some, but for the turban-wearers, who would cut their throats. All this was conveyed without any English, but no matter, the meaning was clear.
So, interesting times here in Iran. Going to have a few very quiet days here, doing not much, maybe watch some more IRINN, muck about online a bit. Unfortunately the web filtering used by the Great Socialist Islamic Republic of Iran with Mohammed (peace be upon him)’s blessing, doesn’t allow me to access quite a few sites. So to those who have added me as a friend on Facebook, I’m not ignoring you, I’m just not allowed to access that site. All sites listing the sites blocked are also banned, so I can’t even tell what the full list is. Oddly, Slashdot is banned, but not The Register. Guess News for Nerds just aint allowed in an Islamic Republic.
Will be getting a 16 hour bus up to Tehran, for fun with Turkmen visas, before going over to Mashhad, and out to Turkmenistan.
Hope everyone’s safe and well out there